The Wine Idea

ISTANBUL, Turkey — As in any big city you can eat both high and low here, but the sheer number of restaurants per linear foot of sidewalk is unparalleled, at least in our experience. Many are tiny kebap and kofte (meatball) shops occupying six-or eight-foot-wide storefronts with no room to sit. One day, lost in…

The tag at left is affixed to the capsule of the 2008 Renato Ratti Nebbiolo d’Alba, a wine I discuss in a column to appear in the Globe Food pages at the end of October. It’s a beauty, by the way. The theme of the column is how to use a simple technique well known…

THE POLITICAL AND MILITARY conflicts between the Roman Empire and its German antagonists lasted hundreds of years, concluding, as we’ve been told, with the germanification of the Western empire.  But did it?  One could easily argue that in overrunning the Latin West, Germans were eventually colonized by Roman culture with its literacy, urbanity, and money…

In addition to putting us in the path of tropical storm Irene, a recent visit to southwestern Vermont put us back in the neighborhood of artisan bread baker Doug Rountree. We profiled Doug, left, in a December 2010 story in the Globe’s Food pages.  To say the guy makes wonderful old timey bread doesn’t begin to…

No, not that bucket list. We’re talking about the list of red wines we prefer to drink only after they’ve had a good long sit in an ice bucket – enough to bring the temperature down to something distinctly chilly. If you know something of the pleasures of young, light-bodied red wines sipped cool, it’s likely…

Giorgio Milos is master barista for the high-end Italian coffee company illycafe of Trieste and maintains a blog at the Atlantic. In his first post there last May, he criticized American baristi for not knowing their business; in particular, he took them to task for not knowing how much coffee to use when making espresso.…

This is (part of) the set up for the by-the-glass wine program at chef Michael Leviton’s spanking new spot, Area Four, on Main St. between Kendall and Central in Cambridge. Except for the couple of sparklers on offer, all the wines here come out of stainless steel kegs (tops with their fittings are just visible…

In a column to appear in next Wednesday’s Food pages, we’ll be highlighting a category we’re calling extreme chardonnay. The common thread is the crisp, dry fruit, shimmering acidity, and mineral interest higher latitude chardonnay offers.  We’ve been tasting a number of French wines that fill the bill.  Two surprises: the number of wines from the…

A lengthy interview yesterday with Dennis Gilligan who manages the elite estates portfolio at Massachusetts distributor United Liquors. Gilligan was tapped (sorry) by restaurateur Dave Dubois to get a keg program going at The Citizen Public House & Oyster Bar in Boston’s Fenway neighborhood and knows the logistics of kegs as well as anyone I’ve…

The California Wine Experience is a trademark of the Wine Spectator Scholarship Foundation and so presumably not available to an author as a book title. Rather a shame that, because the phrase would have made an excellent alternative title for David Darlington’s new effort just published as “An Ideal Wine: One Generation’s Pursuit of Perfection…

“Fine wine wine on a small scale” is how Kip Kumler (left) owner/winemaker at Turtle Creek Winery in Lincoln, Massachusetts describes his operation. The 900 cases produced there certainly fit the ‘small scale’ description. And anyone who has tasted some of Kip’s better efforts knows that the ‘fine wine’ part is also completely legit. The…

A series of conversations issuing from our post last week on whether oxidation should be routinely classified as a wine fault resulted in an invitation from Kenmore Square’s Island Creek Oyster Bar to drop by and taste what they refer to as their ‘rusty whites.’ Seven wines on offer here are made in a self-consciously…